Epoxy resin is a thermosetting polymer formed by mixing two components: a base resin (bisphenol A or F) and a hardener (amine or polyamide). This chemical reaction produces an extraordinarily hard, resistant and versatile material.

Not all epoxy resins are the same. There are specific formulations designed for different applications: industrial floors, artistic furniture, art, construction and more. Using the wrong resin is the most common mistake and can ruin a project.

Floor resins are formulated to withstand traffic, impacts and abrasion. They are classified as:

100% Solids Epoxy

Solvent-free. Creates thick layers (up to 3mm per application). The most resistant option for industrial floors and garages. Requires professional equipment for application.

Water-Based Epoxy

Easier to apply and with less odor. Ideal for residential spaces and areas with little ventilation. Lower chemical resistance than 100% solids.

Solvent-Based Epoxy

Excellent concrete penetration. Used mainly as a primer or sealer. Stronger odor during application.

Metallic Epoxy

Special formulation with metallic pigments that creates three-dimensional effects. Used for high-end decorative floors in residences and businesses.

For furniture and art, resins with different properties than flooring are required:

Crystal Clear Resin (Table Top)

High transparency, self-leveling and UV yellowing resistant. Perfect for river tables, encapsulations and resin art. Can be poured in thick layers without generating excessive bubbles.

Lamination Resin

Low viscosity to impregnate fibers (carbon, fiberglass) or create thin layers. Used in manufacturing surfboards, jewelry and thin coatings.

Pouring Resin (Deep Pour)

Designed for deep pours of up to 5cm per layer. Generates less exothermic heat, which prevents cracking. Ideal for river tables and large-volume artistic pieces.

In the construction and industrial sector, epoxy resins have critical applications:

• Epoxy mortar: Structural concrete repair and bolt anchoring
• Crack injection: Sealing and repair of fissures in concrete structures
• Anti-corrosive coating: Protection of tanks, pipes and metallic structures
• Structural adhesive: Bonding dissimilar materials with superior resistance

Use this quick guide to select the appropriate resin:

• For garage or industrial floors: 100% solids epoxy + polyaspartic topcoat
• For decorative home floors: Metallic epoxy + UV resistant topcoat
• For river tables or encapsulations: Crystal clear Table Top or Deep Pour resin depending on thickness
• For art and jewelry: Low viscosity crystal clear resin
• For concrete repairs: Epoxy mortar or injection resin

At SobrePoxi we are experts in all these systems. We advise you at no cost so you use the correct product in your project.

Not all epoxy resins are the same, and product quality directly determines the final result of your project:

Professional grade vs. commercial resins

Professional grade resins have a higher percentage of solids, better chemical resistance and longer service life. Commercial grade resins (those found in hardware stores) are thinner, less resistant and can fail in demanding applications such as garage floors or daily-use furniture.

Factors that determine quality

• Solids percentage: 100% solids resins have no solvents that evaporate — everything you apply stays. Resins with 50-70% solids lose thickness when curing
• Compressive strength: Good floor resins exceed 10,000 PSI compressive strength. Economy ones may be below 5,000 PSI
• UV resistance: Resins without UV stabilizers yellow in weeks. Look for resins with integrated UV protection or always apply a protective topcoat
• Working time (pot life): A professional resin gives you 30-45 minutes of working time. Economy ones can cure in 15-20 minutes, making application difficult
• Viscosity: For floors, a medium viscosity allows self-leveling without running. For tables, you need low viscosity to eliminate bubbles

Why does SobrePoxi use premium products?

We work exclusively with professional grade resins with quality certifications. This means your floor or furniture will maintain its appearance and performance for decades, not months. The cost difference between a good product and a mediocre one is minimal compared to the cost of redoing a failed project.

If you're researching epoxy resin, these are the terms you'll encounter frequently:

• Pot life: The time you have to work the mixture before it starts to harden
• Curing: Chemical process by which liquid resin becomes a hard solid. It's not the same as "drying" — it's an irreversible chemical reaction
• Exothermic: The curing reaction generates heat. In large volumes (like river tables), excessive heat can cause cracking or yellowing
• CSP (Concrete Surface Profile): Level of concrete roughness necessary for epoxy to adhere. Achieved with grinding or shot blasting
• Topcoat: Final transparent layer that protects epoxy from UV rays, abrasion and chemicals
• Polyaspartic: Type of aliphatic polyurea used as a high-resistance topcoat. Cures fast and has excellent UV resistance
• Deep pour: Resin formulated for deep pours (up to 5cm per layer) without generating excessive heat
• Table top: High transparency resin designed for furniture surfaces and thin encapsulations
• Live edge: Natural uncut wood edge, used in river tables and artistic furniture
• Flake: Decorative vinyl pieces scattered over wet epoxy to give texture and design
• Primer: First layer that penetrates concrete and seals pores to improve system adhesion
• Broadcast: Technique of scattering sand, quartz or flakes over the wet epoxy surface